Car & Classic Dealer

Air Cooled Classics

Unit 1C 46 Kernick Road Penryn Cornwall

TR10 9DQ

DEPOSIT Taken 1971 Porsche 911T LHD Coupe Silver Carrera RS SOLD

* Deposit Taken 25/ 12/ 18 (A. F from Germany), Sale pending SUBJECT to payment FULL

If your looking for a Air Cooled Porsche, just check out my other items.... I have a 1968 Porsche 912 Project for sale, and a 1972 Porsche 911 rolling shell

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For sale a 1970 (1971 Model Year) LHD Porsche 911T 2. 2 Non Sunroof Coupe, forward dated slightly to look like a 1973 Carrera RS. If you wanted to change it back to the original 1971 look, it would be a piece of cake, as its already an early 911. I personally would enjoy it as it is, as it turns more heads, than any other 911 I have ever owned, it drives well, thanks to the light bumpers and 8" wheels, and as its a non-matching engine, originality no longer matters...!

The gearbox is as smooth as liquid silk, and the engine has superb oil pressure, which starts first, every time. The acceleration is brisk, and it gets quickly from A to B, turning heads, with plenty of ear to ear grinning charm.

As a narrow body 911, its a real delight to drive in LHD, which give it more room for fast road pedal work. The RHD cars give the "right" sitting position in the UK, but their offset pedals have your knees bent to the left with less room for those with long legs or big feet.

It's period correct 2. 2 911T engine (dated 1970), matches the V5 but is not the original engine (i. e not matching numbers). As it is not the original engine, it could be purchased with the following options....

*** Option A) ***

£37, 911 As advertised with the 2. 2 engine, which has superb oil pressure, and great throttle response

*** Option B) ***

£39, 911 with a 1975 911 2. 7 (CIS) engine fitted instead, running with the fuel injection rebuilt (Distributor/ WUR, new injectors, etc), fully set up with 2. 7 fuel pump/ fuel accumulator, and the engine recomissioned with the cam timing/ chains/ ramps checked with new pressure fed (carrera) tensioners fitted

*** Option C) ***

£34, 911 without the 2. 2 engine and with the 2. 7 as option B above, but with the 2. 7 engine out of the car, and as non-runner.... so you would have to do the work in option B yourself.

*** Option D) ***

£30, 911 without either engine... and fit one of your choice.... if your strapped for cash, or just fuel frugal, a 1. 6 or 2. 0 aircooled VW engine would bolt straight up to the gearbox, with a Kennedy Engineering flywheel/ and normal 911 clutch to finish the conversion...

With the light and narrow bodies, the 2. 2 is lively and of course period correct, but of course with it being a 2. 7 evocation, a 2. 7 in the back is always nice, more poke too! There are merits to both options

With full nut and bolt restored early 911T's, now successfully selling in the £100, 000 to £150, 000 bracket, it is priced to reflect the fact it is an on the road project 911, which could be driven, and worked on/ restored at a pace to suit, rather than a total restoration project sitting in a garage which wont be on the road for a very very long time, if ever. The average person who buys an on off the road restoration project, will never get the car on the road, which is why you should ALWAYS buy drivers! Life is short, and often gets in the way no matter your ambition....!

I am currently working on it, but its sloooooooooooow progress thanks to other commitments so, I'm mostly just driving it on the weekends. The best bit for me is : Its on the road, sure it needs work, but I can drive it. So on the weekends, I take my boy out and we drive, all over, on day trips, which in a head turning, classic 911 on fast and curvy roads, just makes the weekends so much more special. He calls it "his" car, and thinks all engines are in the back. Yep, I've brought him up right.

One thing I love, about owning and working on 911's is that all classic cars take the same time to work on (more or less) so when a 911 doubles in price, which they do on average every 5 - 10 years, your making a serious return both on your capital AND time invested. I learned this 10 years ago, and never looked back.

My personal approach to the car, would be over the coming winter doing the mechanical and electrical jobs, getting it to the point it is nice to drive, going to various shows throughout next spring and summer. Fixing things like : Steering play, bump steer (raise ride height), change rear shocks, oil leak from gearbox axle seal, oil leak(s) from engine, fitting a stereo, recover and sort the seats out, fit the fuel breather system, adding anti roll bars, re-connecting/ fixing the rear window heater wiring, adding an extra battery, fitting heating, fixing a gauge, fitting the bumpers better, and other jobs on the fix list.

Then once I have had a few years of use, I would move on to the body.

While the 911 is a constant head turner on the road, up close it is obvious it needs a full repaint, with new panels as required (wings, sills, kidneys, etc). Being a NON sunroof US coupe it has never had the problem of the sunroof drains getting blocks and rotting out the A and C pillars because of it.

All 911's need (and will need; trust me I have had 14) the same work at some point. Like any 911 it needs the usual, but you could drive and enjoy it for a quite a while yet, unlike a total restoration project where you have no choice but to do the body before you can drive it. Which lets face it, might never happen. That's why you should always buy drivers....!

As a PROJECT classic car, it will be sold AS IS, without any form of gaurantee, on a spares or repairs basis as an on going restoration project. The reason for this approach is so I have no worries whatsoever with regard the future. There are a specific set of rules which apply to the sale of cars as spares or repairs, which are (must be collected by trailer, I cannot give you the mot certificate, etc). This is so you understand you must check the car over yourself or by a competent person if you are not, prior to driving it on the road for your first time.

I have covered in total around 1300 miles since its MOT last April (now MOT Exempt), which will continue to rise as I continue to drive it. The current mileage on the odometer of 21, 000 which is most likely to be 120, 000 however as there is only some service history with the car, and it cannot be proven or disproven, the mileage should be disregarded. The best bit about this, is its not a low mileage car and you could just get out and drive it, rather than something sitting in your garage you never drive because you are too worried to add miles to it.

Luke
the details below (Eves & Weekends)

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